Amadablam Expedition

Trekking and climbing guide and other staff arrangements

Experienced and professional mountaineers and guides lead your expeditions. You have climbed the mountain several times, with other crew members' support and all the logistics for the trip. Not only in terms of qualifications, but we also make sure that our managers can demonstrate proven success when climbing mountains at high altitudes. The number of guides depends on the team's size to maximize the chances of each climber reaching the top without compromising safety. Our expedition leaders are also experienced in treating altitude problems, including acute mountain sickness (AMS). Crew members are adept at building tents and campgrounds, trail snowmelt, cooking, and other daily necessities.

Travel insurance

Travel insurance for each itinerary of our company is a prerequisite for booking vacations. At a minimum, you must have emergency and repatriation insurance that must include the mountain rescue cost. Carefully review the terms and conditions of your insurers. In particular, you should ensure that the following are covered: 1) Activity (i.e., tourism, trekking or mountaineering) 2) Maximum altitude reached during trekking 3) Evacuation of the helicopter in an emergency. You should understand that you will bear the cost of the evacuation and return procedures. It is your responsibility to pay all costs associated with evacuation or medical treatment. You must be fully aware of travel insurance's effects and understand the limitations and exclusions of your policy. Please note that in certain circumstances, our company guide can initiate helicopter rescue operations (or other necessary operations) in medical emergencies without first seeking approval from your insurance company.

Physical condition and experience requirements

The Ama Dablam Expedition is rated 5D in difficulty. It means that the technical problem includes very steep ice and climbing. Climbers should feel safe and comfortable when climbing or descending fixed ropes along the steep technical terrain. We also recommend that climbers already have experience in ice and ice climbing, significantly over 6,000 m. Climbing also requires a high level of physical and mental fitness. Since the climbing experience will be exhausting, climbers with previous experience must be in good physical shape.

Acclimatization

The route of the Ama Dablam Expedition is planned with a high level of knowledge of AMS. Climbing too high up too quickly leads to an illness that is serious enough to cause death. As much higher altitude, the oxygen levels less in the air. At the height of more than 5000 m, there is 50% less oxygen than at sea level. Therefore, your body needs more time to adapt to an environment with less oxygen. During this trip, two separate days in Namche and Pheriche are reserved for acclimatization only. Besides, the gradual walk will get used to the altitude better. There is also a different day dedicated to an emergency if things do not go as planned.

Guests with known heart, lung, or blood disorders are advised to consult their doctor before traveling. Mild headaches, fever, loss of appetite, or stomach upset are symptoms of AMS. The company's travel routes were created with the most exceptional care for AMS. However, keep in mind that some travelers are more vulnerable than others.

Trekking day

Since you are in a remote rural area, you will experience the early bedtime and early morning hours. A typical day of trekking begins around 6 or 7 a.m. enjoy a hearty breakfast and get started. Take your bag with the personal items you need for the day. Walk at your own pace, enjoy the scenery, chat with the locals, and take pictures. The lunch break depends on the terrain and is prepared by our catering team. Usually stops after about 3 hours of walking for lunch. The lunchtime also helps with acclimatization. The goal would be to get to the next stop at sunset. After reaching the overnight point, the crew members arrange the tents. You can relax with a cup of tea or coffee or take a nice walk in the camp. Dinner would be ready around 7 p.m. Enjoy dinner and share the day's experiences with the team members.

Climbing day

The climbing route can vary depending on the personal experience of the climber. A climbing day includes constant climbing for 3-4 hours in the morning. After lunch, rest there is a 2-3 hour climb in the afternoon. However, flexibility in the climbing route is required because people climb at their pace and respond individually to the stress of climbing. We ensure the proportion of climbers and Sherpa guides who focus on high-security measures so that each climber can progress at their own pace.

Climbing plan

 Reach camp one from Base camp 1 (4,570 m)

The Ama Dablam Base Camp is a broad grass plain at an altitude of 4,570 m. Camp 1 is 5,700 m high. Therefore, it is approximately 1000 meters on foot from base camp to camp 1. Climb along a moraines gravel slope. Then cross a rocky field on the southwest ridge. There is a stream with fresh water, so it is sometimes used as an advanced base camp. It takes 5 to 6 hours to reach Camp 1, which is on a steep rocky area. Generally, you'll spend a night in Camp 1 to acclimatize, and then return to base camp for final preparation for the summit.

From Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5950 m):

The climb from camp 1 to camp 2 is the most technical part of the expedition. Cross the new granite slabs and snow-covered spots. The hardest part is the rock tower, also called the yellow tower, just before camp 2. The ascent between camp 1 and the yellow tower is mainly class 3-4. Sherpas repair new strings if necessary. Camp 2 is a narrow, exposed area on a rock pillar. It is, therefore, better to find out whether there is already a group in camp 2. It takes 4-5 hours.

From Camp 2 to Camp 3 (6,400 m):

Camp 2 to Camp 3 involves climbing the steep ridge above the 70-degree couloirs. The stern rock face of the Gray Tower tests your endurance. Put on your crampons to climb a steep slope of rock and ice. Use your Jumar better as a backup for security. Cross snow and ice with bare boulders in the snowy, hanging spots on both sides: Mushroom Ridge connects the mixed terrain on the southwest ridge below the snow-covered field above the summit. From camp 2 to camp 3, it takes almost 3-4 hours.

From Camp 3 to the summit (6856 m):

Camp 3 is on a relatively flat snowfield just above the broad snow-covered Mushroom Ridge. The climb to the summit is icy and exposed. The route is mostly straight but comparatively less technical than before. The increase is about 3-4 hours of ascent and then about 3 hours of descent. Sherpas put on tight ropes. Continue on the steep snow slopes. Get on the almost vertical ice field. The summit looks fantastic on a bright and dry day. Admire the breathtaking views of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu that unfold before your eyes. Spend the night in Camp 3 and return to base camp the next day.